hi, i bought a evinrude 2hp approx 1983 for an auction and was great condition only to find there was no compression hardly at all so i bought new rings and it had great compression after but wouldn't start had a great spark but still wouldn't start so i thought maybe fuel problems so i stripped and cleaned the carb but still wouldnt start so i got another carb of eBay and exactly the same problem, so two carbs and great spark im baffled and at a loss, ive since cleaned the points and set them and bought a new condenser but still the same, i have noticed tho if i put the throttle arm across to fast instead of the start position it seems to fire but not run HELP HELP,
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Compression has always been a problem with those small single cylinder engines. Glad you caught and corrected that problem. Normally just cross hatching (hone) the cylinder wall cures the problem but as long as it's tore down, new rings was the way to go.
As I remember that engine, it was strictly a magneto ignition setup. As such, the spark plug should be a Champion J6C gaped at .030 .
Double check the point setting. Did you actually clean the high speed jet with a piece of wire... sometimes solvent and air pressure just doesn't do the job properly.
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.
Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.
Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
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(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)
Note that there are other ways to set points such as using a ohm meter or timing light... however, the following will result in a setting so close to being exact that one could not tell the difference.
Make sure that your feeler gauge is absolutely clean so as NOT to transfer oil/grease to the points.
Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will p*** thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.
NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.
NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP embossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.
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(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)
With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not ****ed.
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Yep, in agreement. If the carburetot adjustments mentioned above make no difference, remove and clean the carburetor, rebuild as needed via a kit, then do the adjustments.
DO NOT use ether starting fluid on a 2 stroke engine as that does not contain any lubricant. Use a 50/1 mix in a spray bottle instead.
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