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98 Ficht- wont start- relay just clicks

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  • 98 Ficht- wont start- relay just clicks

    I have a 1998 Ficht 150 (yeh, I know- but I pamper mine and its lasted all this time)- Anyway, over the past year or so I’ve had to do a little ‘jiggle’ on the throttle control in order to start it- I ***umed the neutral switch was starting to go. This spring it was getting a little more prominent (of not starting) so I decided to take it apart to check the neutral switch in the throttle arm- its fine. 0 ohms in neut and opens when advanced. On the lake today it was starting- but I had to do a lot of re-trying. Tonight in the driveway- it would catch only about 1 out of 5, then it got worse and worse (less and less of the engine turning over vs. nothing). (now its nothing)
    I noticed from the prw distribution board there was a ‘click’ sound from a relay when turning the key to start (I click from a relay). I have checked battery connections and am fully charged, all visible connections are clean and tight. I even tried swapping relays (their all the same #). Fuses are good and I checked the master pwr switch. There's no ‘chattering’ like a bum starter or solenoid. Just the one click from the power panel.
    What once was 1 out of 10 (not turning over), turned into 1 out of 5, and in the driveway tonight- is now 5 out of 5.
    Having a tournament this Sat- on Lk Erie- I figured I should check it- glad I did- but now what?.
    When it catches- the engine fires right up- so there’s some ‘ignition’ signal not getting through someplace. Is there additional linkage switches?
    Any ideas where to look?
    I’m savvy with a volt meter- just need to be pointed in the right direction

  • #2
    Problem found
    Get a load of this!! A hairline crack in the back next to the (+) relay post on the sol. Sometimes make- sometimes not. Turn the engine, or wiggle the throttle - which would put an ever so slight strain or twist on the elect dist. panel (on rubber mounts) where the sol was mounted- and it would start. Vibration would open the crack so that next time- no start.
    On the bench with 12v on the sol terminals- it would ‘click’- but if you twisted it- the contact would open (or close).

    Go figure.

    Nevertheless....... found and solved-
    Thanks for the help and 'navigational' suggestions as to where to look.

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    • #3
      Glad that you found it, I had know idea what the problem could be.

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