Carb Rebuild-E120TLERC-1st ever attempt

[jimbobcooter]

Ok so I definitely have an issue beyond simple carb mixture adjustment.

1) I will place primer valve clockwise until stops.

2) Remove each carb and look for a bad seal against throttle body. Reattach and test. Seems that a bad seal here could leak down to the return spring (no issues with this prior to carb rebuild...so I am doubtful that oblong wear would occur while she was winterized)

3) If seals to throttle body are good...then I am digging back into each carb to manually (with a strand of wire) clean each carb replacing gaskets as I go?

Is this a good approach? What is the best method to check for success? No misfire & no rpm change when moving primer lever?

[Joe Reeves]

If you already cleaned the carburetors, they should still be clean but I always rinse them off with mineral spirits anyway. It just that those bra$$ fuel pa$$ageways and jets need to be absolutely clear.

If all is well later on... and you open that fuel primer red valve, you'll get the same effect as if you had a manual choke and closed the butterfly, that is it will flood the engine out!

After you clean the fuel pa$$ageways and have the engine idling, adjust the adjustable needle valves as follows, then one by one, pull a spark plug wire off a spark plug to see if you get the same response on all four cylinders. After that, the water test run will let you know if all is well.

Did you check the compression and spark?

[jimbobcooter]

Finally got around to working on her again. Placed the schrader valve facing directly towards the engine.

Checked spark and compression both checked good. Sprayed some carb cleaner around all the of the carb to fuel rail connections and at the carb attachment interface. I noticed a slight improvement around one or two of the fuel line connections.

I then removed all the carbs and cleaned the double br*** tubes with a small piece of copper wire. Replaced all fuel line zip ties with metal gasket clamps tightened just enough that there are no gaps b/w the gasket and hose.
Reattached and noticed maybe the slightest of improvements. I noticed that the initial bulb prime did not result in any leaks at the bottom of the throttle butterfly shaft return spring. However after running for a short time there was moisture present at the bottom of both (not dripping but when touched there is a drop).

The engine starts and will idle with a very obvious miss. I am thinking at least 2 cylinders. At slightly higher rpm seems to run fine.

When I was cleaning the carbs I noted how many turns each carb mixture screw was out. Upon re***embly I returned them to stock spec (I believe 2.5 turns out). Could this be severely off mixture adjustments?

Any other suggestions? Could I have mixed up the attachment order of the fuel lines to the fuel rail?

I was thinking one last attempt to return mixture screws to original settings (pre cleaning) and try to run one more time will all new plugs. Thoughts?

Post run pics of plugs:
Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting starboard side top plug moist somewhat black bottom plug dry and black
Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting port side top plug slightly moist and black bottom plug dry and black
Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting fuel line orientation on fuel rail.

Thanks again for all the help!
Joe

[Joe Reeves]

I used to know exectly what a "Flat Black Fluff" appearance of a spark plug meant but I can't pull it from memory.

Go to the Evinrude/Johnson forum of MarineEngine.com and ask either (or both) "Boobie" or "Daselbee" what would cause that... they may know.

Seems faintly that it related to a break in the HT spark plug wire or weak ignition, something like that but not sure.

Gotta ask as a friend of mine did this many years ago..... you didn't accidentally put diesel fuel in your tank did you?

[jimbobcooter]

Reached out to Boobie. Thanks

No diesel. Non-ethanol only! Seafoam added in this current tank of fuel for winterize.