Carb Rebuild-E120TLERC-1st ever attempt

[jimbobcooter]

Going to attempt to rebuild the carbs on my V4 E120TLERC for the first time this winter and I have a few questions.

Parts:
Ordering 4 carb rebuild kits one for each carb...
Do I need to order throttle body gaskets (#40 part # 0332319)? or can I leave tb attached and just remove the carbs one at a time?

Is it possible to perform a thorough cleaning in such a way that I do not have to do a ton of adjustment/fine tuning when complete?


Parts diagram:
1994 E120TLERC Evinrude CARBURETOR AND LINKAGE - "C, E, M, R" SUFFIX MODELS Diagram and Parts

[Joe Reeves]

Just remove the carburetors. Leave the throttle bodies attached.

No adjustments will be needed as the carburetors have "all" fixed jets... Intermediate speed, slow speed, and high speed.

Make notes as to what jet goes where as some jets look alike but are different sizes. The size of the jets are clearly marked/imprinted on the side of each jet.

[jimbobcooter]

Thanks Joe! I will take lots of pics as I dis***emble. I have done a Holly 4 barrel carb and some lawn mower carbs but never an outboard.

I will post more questions as I get into them if needed.

[Joe Reeves]

Of the three carburetors mentioned.... outboards are the easiest to work on.

The high speed jets lay horizontal in the bottom center portion of the float chambers... way in back of the drain screw. Clean them carefully with a piece of single strand steel wire as solvent just doesn't do that job properly.

Regardless of what you may read in the manual about setting float levels, do the following:

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not ****ed.

[jimbobcooter]

I was thinking about the order in which to clean the carbs/winterize. At first I was thinking winterize and then clean carbs, but now I am second guessing as I imagine it will be kinda hard to start in the spring. I will not know if that was do to rebuild or just winterization. Any advice?

[Joe Reeves]

Winterize the engine.

Remove, clean, & rebuild the carburetors.

Install the carburetors..... DO NOT run the engine until next spring (or whenever) when you're going to use it again. Leave the carburetors clean!

[jimbobcooter]

Finally getting around to doing the work and I found what I believe is an air mixture screw that I am sure will need an adjustment. Any advice for this process?

The screw I am talking about is the only silver screw that is on the outter/upper left portion of the carb if viewed as soon as you took the arrestor cover off.

Thanks,
Joe

[jimbobcooter]

Also I noticed that on dis***embly there was not a gasket or clear plastic washer under the needle seat. Should I install the one that came with the kit? or leave it off?

[Joe Reeves]

Originally posted by jimbobcooter View Post

Also I noticed that on disa$$embly there was not a gasket or clear plastic washer under the needle seat. Should I install the one that came with the kit? or leave it off?

The needle valve you speak of...... having retired some years earlier that the production years (1994) of your engine..... I'm ***uming that is a fine tuning idle adjustment valve... BUT... check that out for precise information on the forums of MarineEngine.com and/or iBoats.com

The float needle valve seat gasket question..... If on the float chamber, there is a round raised seat (looks like a gasket) DO NOT install the nylon washer.

[jimbobcooter]

Thanks for the info...my carbs are plastic with the raised washer like rim built in the housing so no washer added.

Also found that 2.5 turns out is the air mixture pre set.

I have run into another issue in that I cut the fuel lines running to the carbs from the fuel rail (part #s 0339747 & 0339746). I can find a couple of the latter for $25/ea but am struggling to find the ones ending in 47. They are the pre-formed type.

Any issue if I just use regular fuel hose that is the same diameter? Any way to identify exactly what the stock diameter is?

[Joe Reeves]

339747 hose...... Should still be available via a dealership.

Hose diameter...... Just take a hose sample with you to any automotive parts store, or various major hardware stores such as Lowe's etc.

Curious as to why one would cut the fuel lines.

[jimbobcooter]

Update: I started her for the first time today after winterizing and carb rebuild. She fired right up no problems and blew a ton of smoke. However, she is definitely not running on all cylinders and has a noticeable misfire. After a few min on the muffs I shut her down and pulled the plugs to find a few of them black. Thinking that the fogging oil might have fouled them I cleaned them off with some gas and tried again. More or less the same story. I am wondering if I just need to adjust/tune the mixture screws per the manual or if I have a leak somewhere. Currently all mixture screws set per manual so I am sure they need to be adjusted some anyways but I need some advice in case I have another issue I will never get them adjusted properly.

A few observations:
3 of the 4 plugs are black and one is a nice tan color (see pic) http://i67.tinypic.com/2irjh2.jpg

I noticed that there is a small amount (almost a drip) of fuel/oil on the bottom of the posts with springs on them--not sure what they are but I am pretty sure they are attached to the throttle body...no puddles of gas or anything in the bottom of cover----could this be a leak from one or more of the carbs? or just a really rich mixture? (see pic drip wiped off but part I am talking about is left of the carb bowl) http://i64.tinypic.com/294qeyq.jpg

Adjusting the schrader valve had a noticeable impact on the motor. It seemed to run best in the position pitcured. If turned pointing straight away from the engine it would stall...if pointed straight at the engine the rpms would increase and it seemed to run better but still missed. Where should this valve be placed when operating? when fogging? (pic http://i68.tinypic.com/2zyfv6b.jpg)

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated

Joe

[Joe Reeves]

Your carburetors need cleaning. Make sure that "all" jets, especially the high speed jets that are located horizontally in the bottom center of the float chambers, are absolutely clean.

You state: "Adjusting the schrader valve had a noticeable impact on the motor."

Yeah, I bet it does.... you're not adjusting a schrader valve, you're playing with the fuel flow of the fuel primer valve. Apparently you're not aware of that components function. See below.

(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)

The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pa$$ thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.

Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.

The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.

Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.

The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.

Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold pa$$ageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.

Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.

Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.

Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.

[jimbobcooter]

Thanks for the quick reply Joe. So the schrader valve should face directly towards the engine and should not be touched. In other words the valve should be turned counterclockwise "manual on", clockwise till stop is "run" position.

Carbs were just rebuilt...you think they are still dirty? I took extra care to make sure all jets were clean and placed back in the same position.

What about the small drips of oil/fuel mixture?

[Joe Reeves]

Regardless of any problem... best to check compression and spark.

Remove all spark plugs... compression should be in the 90-100 psi range. Spark should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! What did you find in these two areas?

Moving red lever on primer valve changes engine rpm normally indicates that fuel isn't flowing through the carburetors properly.

Thin bra$$ tube in the carburetors may be fouled slightly. High speed jets may need manual cleaning with piece of wire. Seal between a carburetor and throttle body may have slipped out of place.

That dripping off the throttle butterfly shaft return spring could be due to the aluminum wearing oblong around the shaft (hope not)... rather hope that it is simply draining down from one of the carburetors.

Adjustable needle valves, if they exist are to be adjusted at a low rpm (idle) to their smoothest highest idle rpm... not a book mention. Usually the book is just referring to a starting point.