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**Joe Reeves** · 09-07-2016, 03:01 PM

You don't say exactly, but I a$$ume that once again you have no ignition/spark.

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(Standard Spark Test)
(J.Reeves)

Remove the spark plugs so that the engine can turn over as fast as possible at cranking speed. The ignition is self contained (not dependent on battery voltage) and the engine must turn over at least 300 rpm in order for the stator under the flywheel to generate the needed 300v AC which must be delivered to the powerpack.

Rig up some kind of a spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap for the spark to jump. You can design a multi spark tester of simply move the tester from one plug wire to the other.

Crank the engine and observe the spark. The spark should jump that 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame..... a real strong blue snap!

If you have spark and the engine won't run, I'd suspect that the carburetor's are fouled and will require removing, cleaning, and rebuilding.

If no spark, or if the spark is weak, disconnect the main RED electrical connector at the engine. Now using a small jumper from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid to the 3/8" nut terminal of the solenoid that engages the solenoid (not the 3/8" ground nut), crank the engine again and observe the spark.

If you now have spark, the usual problem is that a short exists in the ignition switch, in which case replace the switch. If still no spark, it's usually a case that either the engine is cranking too slow or the stator under the flywheel is faulty.

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If the above cures the problem... fine. If not, continue on as follows:

Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)

The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire on the wiring harness side, NOT the powerpack side and ground.

With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.

Let me know if voltage exists.
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**everonvietnam2016** · 09-08-2016, 08:19 AM

sản phẩm tốt, giá rẻ, chất lượng, an to�*n cho người s�* dụng, dịch vụ tuyệt trần, lúc n�*o có điều kiện qua ủng hộ nhé. chúc c�*a h�*ng l�*m ăn hiệu quả

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Power pack issue??

Power pack issue??

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