1984 e115tlcrd remove lower unit

[Joe Reeves]

Originally posted by jamescarrollpittman View Post

Joe, I removed the trim tab bolt and trim tab. I removed the bolt from under the trim tab that screws into the exhaust flange, and I removed 4 bolts along the gear case flange that screw into the exhaust flange. That is all that I see. I am getting about a 1/8th gap, but it won't come out. Afraid to use pry bars and such. Not counting the trim tab bolt, that's 5 bolts all labeled #78 and described as " Gear Case to Exhaust Housing" on my parts drawing and five are required. There is another bolt on my drawing labeled #63 and the description is "Gear Case to housing Short", but I am not sure where this one is.I Hope this makes sense to you. At this point I am not sure what position the shift rod is in as it is disconnected under the power head.
jamespittman

Isn't there a bolt, perhaps two, just in front of the trim tab, one of which would have (I think) a 5/8" hex head?

[jamescarrollpittman]

evinrude 1984e115tlcrd remove lower unit

Yes Joe, there is a 5/8 Hex head screw just ahead of the trim tab. It is out. I had forgotten that that one had been removed earlier. There was two bolts at the trim tab. That makes 6 ea 5/8 screws removed besides screw holding the trim tab and the shoulder pin. The lower unit can be moved left and right about 1/8" each way, but won't drop. A putty knife blade can be run along the flange and there does not seem to have any more bolts. You can see daylight on the prop end and just a tad on the transom end. The unit seems to be pivoting in the center as I move it. Could it be corrosion or other tight fit causing resistance? I did have one screw that unscrewed from the housing but because of corrosion on threads. It had to be removed with channel locks and a hammer to get it completely out of the lower unit.
Thanks for your patience Joe
Jamespittman

[Joe Reeves]

I feel sure that you're correct that all retaining bolts are removed and that the shift rod is detached.... the lower unit should simply drop away.

What happens at times is that someone has had the lower unit off at some earlier time and neglected to re-install the O Ring that goes in a groove just under the splines... and/or neglects to thoroughly grease the splines.

This results in having the driveshaft splines rust and seize within the crankshaft splines..... One of the most difficult jobs that a outboard mechanic can encounter!

It would be great if you missed just one bolt, but if you can move that lower unit sideways 1/8 inch... it doesn't sound good.

There doesn't appear to be many others giving advice here... if no one joins in with some solid advice on freeing that drive-shaft, switch over to the forums temporarily at MarineEngine.com and iBoats.com as that's a common problem that is discussed there quite often. The members there would be more helpful than I would be if that is the problem.

[jamescarrollpittman]

Joe,
Thanks for your input. I will try another forum temporarily for their thoughts.
I will let you know what happens in the future. God Bless you.
jamescarrollpittman

[jamescarrollpittman]

evinrude 1984 e115tlcrd remove lower unit

Joe,
The lower unit is OUT!!!! it came out just today after working on it for several days off and on. Not any corrosion to speak of, but the drive shaft spline was coated with a tar like material that I am sure was part of the problem. The gasket for the drive shaft was in place. The shift rod has black tar like material on it about 50% from the bottom up. The large gasket on the exhaust housing hung up and tore. I just worked the lower housing back and froe and up and down with a flange scraper until I had about a full 1/2" drop on the unit. Then using a wooden wedge on the trim tab end and a flange scraper on each side near the middle, just kept prying and wedging and bingo just like you said when it comes it comes all at once. The flange scrapper I used is made of 3/16 " steel with a 90 degree bend on one end. Each end is flattened and sharpened to an edge for scraping gaskets from pipe flanges. They make good pry bars also.
Any way this thread is closed out. I am sure I will start another on water pump repair and who knows what else.
You don't know how much I appreciated the help and positive responses you gave me.
If you have anything to add please do so.
jamescpittman

[Joe Reeves]

Sounds like someone packed a hardening type permatex or some such material on those splines. When reinstalling and the splines are clean, be sure to have a O Ring in its groove and plenty of anti corrosive grease on the splines.

Lady Luck was smiling on you... really glad that wasn't rust holding the unit on.

[jamescarrollpittman]

evinrude 1984 e115tlcrd remove lower unit

I am ready to install water pump to lower unit, but thinking it may be a good idea to replace the deteriorating water intake screens. I feel that screens are not absolutely necessary in most places, but in the extremely shallow salt water marshes of South Louisiana I feel they are pretty much necessary and worth the time and money to replace. My first attempt at pulling them out was not successful.
My questions are:
What holds the screens in place and just what is the best way to get them out? Someone said just break them up and vacuum the pieces out, but they were not mechanics. Not knowing what holds the screens in place I am hesitant to just start twisting and jerking.
Thanks
jamescpittman

[Joe Reeves]

Normally one can get the screen to lift just so slightly, then stick a screwdriver under it to pry it up... however, it's no good so if you break it into pieces... no harm done.

To install... notice that there is a small retaining tab on each side of the top of the screen. Just drop the screen in, tabs on top sides, and tap it in the center (strongest part) and it'll snap into place quite easily.