1976 70HP #2 cylinder not running.

[windsor]

I have a spark and fuel, but #2 cylinder will not run. Compression was checked recently and was OK. Any ideas on what to look at next?

Many thanks

Windsor

[Joe Reeves]

Remove all spark plugs. Rig some kind of spark tester, the test gap should be 7/16".

The orange wires that lead from the powerpack to the coils..... switch a orange wire from a known firing coil to the coil that isn't firing.

Now, if the non firing coil fires with the wire switched, then obviously the coil is okay.... and if so, the powerpack has failed.

If the coil still doesn't fire, replace the coil.

Put the orange wire(s) back where they belong.

[windsor]

Joe,

Thank you. Forgot to mention I did switch orange wire and plug lead and coil fired up #1 cylinder, so do I need to change the power pack?
Is that an easy job?

Windsor

[Joe Reeves]

Originally posted by windsor View Post

Joe, Thank you. Forgot to mention I did switch orange wire and plug lead and coil fired up #1 cylinder, so do I need to change the power pack? Is that an easy job? Windsor

Yes, very easy... BUT... before you start removing wires, make sure the wiring diagram on the pack cover is in good shape OR make notes, whatever it takes to have the wires back in the proper locations.

NOTE.... Before you start that change over.... to make sure it is the pack at fault, find the wire that leads from the timer base to the powerpack that should fire that non firing coil... and switch it to one of the firing coils. Now if that coil continues to fire, that proves that the timer base is okay and indeed the pack is faulty.

The beauty of this type ignition system is that one can use its own components to test the system.

[windsor]

Joe,
Many thanks for the advice I will give it a try tomorrow afternoon or at the weekend. Following your logic if it is not the power pack, what could it be? I am guessing that the timer base feeds all coils - correct?

[Joe Reeves]

Originally posted by windsor View Post

Joe,
Many thanks for the advice I will give it a try tomorrow afternoon or at the weekend. Following your logic if it is not the power pack, what could it be? I am guessing that the timer base feeds all coils - correct?

Correct in a manner of speaking... sort of. The timer base contains three timing sensors that trigger three electronic switches within the pack to fire the coils (one at a time of course). However the timer base does not supply voltage to the ignition coils.

I Deleted various mentions here (below) that may have been confusing.

[windsor]

Joe,

I am a little confused. First I have no multi-meter, I discovered that number 2 was not firing by starting up and taking HT leads off the spark plug removing 2nd lead did not change engine pitch at all so 2 not working - correct? But 2 had a spark & fuel. On advice I switch 1 & 2 leads from power pack but I was told to also switch over the HT leads at the plug end - was this wrong? Engine started but 2 still not running. What do advise me to do next?
Thanks again.

[Joe Reeves]

You were not supposed to be switching the coil high tension leads that attach to the spark plugs.

You were also not supposed to be running the engine.

You are to simply switch the orange wire from a firing coil to the non firing coil.

You are to remove all the spark plugs an then attach a spark tester with a gap set to 7/16".

Spark testers with adjustable gaps are available at auto part stores.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

[windsor]

Joe,

Many thanks can I call you please?

[windsor]

Originally posted by windsor View Post

Joe,

Many thanks can I call you please?

Joe,

Have tried to contact you via email. Did you get it?

[windsor]

Joe,

I now have an adjustable spark tester, so what do I do? Step by step please.

Many thanks.

[Joe Reeves]

Hearing problem... I avoid the telephone when at all possible.

Starting over here, keeping it simple:

Remove all spark plugs....

Attach spark tester to spark plug wire of non firing coil....

Switch orange wire from a firing coil to the non firing coil.

Crank engine by using a small jumper wire from the large battery cable terminal of the starter solenoid to the small 3/8" nut terminal of the starter solenoid that engages the solenoid.

What did you find?

[windsor]

Joe,

Where is the starter solenoid? Can i not just turn the key to crank the engine? Do I adjust the gap on the tester to 7/16"? What am I looking for? Forgive all the questions but outboards are not my thing I am afraid.

[windsor]

Hi Joe,

Tested today results: Coils wired up correctly spark on 1 no spark on 2. As advised rewired number orange wire so 1 into 2 still no spark. Put them back agin spark on 1 nothing on 2. Spark gap set at 7/16". So following your logic etc I need to change coil number 2 - correct?
Is it an easy process?

Thanks again.

[Joe Reeves]

From what you've said, it sounds like coil #2 is faulty.