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1987 120 VRO wiring

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  • 1987 120 VRO wiring

    Hello all. I am new to the forum- with an old Evinrude problem.

    The motor has very low hours for its age, and ran great until I got some water in the gas, jelled up in the 4 carbs. Hasn't run right since.

    I have cleaned the carbs twice, replaced lines fuel separator, tank, bulb. A repair guy came out and replaced the fuel pump diaphragm, but the relief was short lived

    It still is very hard to start, runs rather poorly when you accelerate much, kind of seems like its cavitating badly or something, then kind of dies out.

    Well it actually started easily today but ran the same.

    I am wondering if two disconnected sets of wires could be causing a problem.
    The VRO was disconnected before I bought the boat, but I am not sure if these wires should be disconnected. Attached are pics. The first is a clip at the side of the motor.

    The second is a set of two wires, one of which goes into the cylinder head.

    Should these be disconnected and any ideas why the motor is running like this?

    Thanks!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    To disconnect the VRO, they also had to disconnect the VRO alarm, which is probably what those wires are.

    The oil tank had a sensor in it for low oil, which is what those actually connect to.


    It really takes a bit to clear out water. Did you put any water displacement fluid (seafoam or iso-heat) in the tanks?

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes, I ended up draining the carbs twice and had run stabil in it. I could try some seafoam.
      I think all the bad gas is out, but it still starts poorly and runs like crap.

      Comment


      • #4
        I a$$ume that you're premixing your gas and oil, and if so, do not be reconnecting any wires from that VRO pump.

        Drain the carburetors, clean the high speed jets carefully with a piece of single strand steel wire.... the jets are located horizontally in the bottom center portion of the float chambers way in back of the drain screw plug.

        Temporarily use a different portable fuel tank with new gas/oil.

        Use Champion spark plugs QL77JC4 gaped for now at .040 for a clean strong blue spark. You can regap them later to .030 if you prefer.

        Think about your problem and try to describe and explain in better terms.

        Your explanation of: "It still is very hard to start, runs rather poorly when you accelerate much, kind of seems like its cavitating badly or something, then kind of dies out" really doesn't do it.

        Hard Starting: Describe your starting procedure.
        Runs Poorly: At all rpms? Missing, dies out, what?
        Cavitating: Propeller is in a air pocket? Engine is racing and boat slows down? What is happening here?

        If you don't have a water/fuel separator installed... the type that looks similar to a auto oil filter, have one installed ASAP as that's the only thing that will stop that junk in your fuel tank from getting to the engine.
        Last edited by Joe Reeves; 07-11-2016, 08:18 PM.

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        • #5
          Yes, I am running pre-mixed oil/gas, water separator type filter (looks like auto oil filter), new tank fuel lines and bulb.

          I have cleaned the carbs, but did not use a single strand wire for the jets.

          I disconnected the wires that the guy looking at it reconnected.

          As of yesterday, it is no longer hard starting. I don't know why.

          WRT poor performance, I misunderstood what cavitation is- the motor doesn't rev highly, it is more like bogging under heavy throttle, and doesn't seem to be getting "traction" in the water. A lot of churning, but not much speed. If you keep the throttle on, it gradually loses even more revs, eventually it dies. It idles fine.
          I replaced plugs recently, but will look at them again and replace with the suggested ones, gapped accordingly.

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          • #6
            Your statement of " it is more like bogging under heavy throttle, and doesn't seem to be getting "traction" in the water. A lot of churning, but not much speed. If you keep the throttle on, it gradually loses even more revs, eventually it dies."

            Check the high speed jets to make sure they' clear.

            If the fuel primer bulb has a tendency to be drawn flat, that would indicate a fuel restriction between the bulb and the fuel supply.

            Are both throttle butterflies perfectly horizontal at full throttle? Check with engine NOT running.
            Last edited by Joe Reeves; 07-11-2016, 08:26 PM.

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            • #7
              Ok. The bulb doesn't go flat.

              I was suspecting it could be the fuel pump, but don't want to be throwing parts at it for $299.
              So, you think I should pull the carbs apart again and make sure I clear the jets with a wire strand?
              I sprayed the heck out of everything with carb cleaner and cleared junk last time, but I may not have gotten the jets clean.

              Comment


              • #8
                If it were me, I'd double check the carburetors and jets.

                If you have someone pump the fuel primer bulb constantly (acting as a manual fuel pump), does that make a difference? If so, think fuel/air leakage at some point between the fuel pump and the fuel supply... OR... a failing pump.

                What is the compression psi on all cylinders?

                With all s/plugs removed, does the spark jump a 7/16" gap on all cylinders with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP!?

                (Spark Tester - Home Made)
                (J. Reeves)

                You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

                A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

                Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

                ..........X1..........X2

                .................X..(grd)

                ..........X3..........X4

                Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

                joe_omc32 | eBay
                ********************

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                • #9
                  Pumping the fuel bulb makes no difference.
                  I will check the compression and triple check the carbs.. would have been smart for me to thoroughly clean them the first time.
                  Thanks

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