1976 35hp shift shaft adjust question

[dpallidap]

I have a 1976 short shaft 35hp motor Mdl#35652G. I replaced the water pump during the winter using the instructions in the service manual and it works fine. However, I changed the amount the shift rod was screwed into the yolk in the gearcase, not knowing it would affect the shifting. It now has a tendency to jump out of gear at times while planned out. Is it possible to adjust the shaft through the access hole without removing the gearcase from the motor? I am thinking it would only take a turn or so to remedy the issue. Is it possible to do this or will the slight bend in the rod make this not able to be done? Any help would be great.

[Joe Reeves]

Originally posted by dpallidap View Post

I have a 1976 short shaft 35hp motor Mdl#35652G. I replaced the water pump during the winter using the instructions in the service manual and it works fine. However, I changed the amount the shift rod was screwed into the yolk in the gearcase, not knowing it would affect the shifting. It now has a tendency to jump out of gear at times while planned out. Is it possible to adjust the shaft through the access hole without removing the gearcase from the motor? I am thinking it would only take a turn or so to remedy the issue. Is it possible to do this or will the slight bend in the rod make this not able to be done? Any help would be great.

Model #35652G indeed indicates that you engine is a 1976 35hp Evinrude..... however my factory 1976 35hp parts book shows a straight threaded rod being screwed completely into the lower unit and being attached to a upper shift rod via the well known bra$$ shift connector.

If the above is what you have, I strongly suspect that you do not have the grooves in the shift rods aligned perfectly with the bolt holes in that bra$$ connector.

[dpallidap]

Thank you for the information. I may have the 35hps I had mixed up when I spoke of the shift rods. I had two of them at one time and got rid of one of them. I will check to make sure the grooves are aligned correctly to the connector as soon as the temps moderate a little here. Over 100 in my garage today! Thanks for the heads up. I will post the outcome here.

[Joe Reeves]

Originally posted by dpallidap View Post

Thank you for the information. I may have the 35hps I had mixed up when I spoke of the shift rods. I had two of them at one time and got rid of one of them. I will check to make sure the grooves are aligned correctly to the connector as soon as the temps moderate a little here. Over 100 in my garage today! Thanks for the heads up. I will post the outcome here.

I'm just slightly east of Tampa..... a floor fan is in constant motion during the day.

[dpallidap]

I am in the Ozark mountains, humidity is usually in the high 70s, this week upper 80s makes for a very muggy day, fans help but not much.

[dpallidap]

Originally posted by Joe Reeves View Post

Model #35652G indeed indicates that you engine is a 1976 35hp Evinrude..... however my factory 1976 35hp parts book shows a straight threaded rod being screwed completely into the lower unit and being attached to a upper shift rod via the well known bra$$ shift connector.

If the above is what you have, I strongly suspect that you do not have the grooves in the shift rods aligned perfectly with the bolt holes in that bra$$ connector.

OK, so I checked and I do indeed have the straight shift rod. I pulled the bolt from the br*** connector and it seems to be aligned to the rod just fine. How do I tell if I do not have it aligned correctly? Is there some indicator or mark I should check to see if the alignment is correct before tighening the bolt? I have a generic manual and it does not even show my particular gearcase, nor does it cover the exhaust housing. Advise would be appreciated. I just fear doing any damage to the gearcase if it is not adjusted correctly.

[Joe Reeves]

Originally posted by dpallidap View Post

I do indeed have the straight shift rod. I pulled the bolt from the bra$$ connector and it seems to be aligned to the rod just fine.

How do I tell if I do not have it aligned correctly? Is there some indicator or mark I should check to see if the alignment is correct before tightening the bolt?

I just fear doing any damage to the gearcase if it is not adjusted correctly.

First, that shift rod must be screwed all the way into the lower unit. If you're not sure if it is or not, it's best to drop the lower unit to make sure. While you're at it, you could also line up the groove in the shift rod with the bolt hole in the bra$$ connector and have that one bolt holding the bra$$ connector to the shift rod tightly.

When a$$embling the lower unit to the engine, use a good flashlight to get the groove on the remaining shift rod lined up with the remaining hole on that bra$$ connector, then tighten that bold securely.

Your fear of doing damage to the lower unit is justified. If the linkage is incorrect... with the rpm that engine turns up and the shifter dog skipping around the lobes of the gears, damage ($$$) will occur rather quickly.

[dpallidap]

That did the trick!

Removed the bolts from the connector one at a time and confirmed they were in the right place. The top bolt required insertion into the connector just a touch. Checked adjustment on the shifter to the bell crank and now everything works fine. No jumping out of gear and shifts are solid. Thanks for the advise and feedback.

[Joe Reeves]

We knew you could do it!