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1991 E28ESLEIB changing t-stat

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  • 1991 E28ESLEIB changing t-stat

    any advice on not breaking the many bolts holding the cylinder cover on?

  • #2
    Your model doesn't have a separate thermostat cover? Most models have a small thermostat housing at the top of the cylinder head?

    There isn't any guaranteed method of preventing corroded bolts from breaking. Although I have found that heating where the threads are does help.

    Black cobalt bits seem to be best for drilling stainless screws out, Very Carefully.

    Good luck.

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    • #3
      t-stat cover

      no separate cover. cylinder hear cover is one piece--something like 11 bolts to remove. this sucks--every other outboard i had in the past had a seperate cover.

      figured i would change it now since it is original 1991. bought the boat last year. maybe i will wait--not likely all will come out. if an upper bolt breaks i can get to it. if one below the lower cowl piece breaks i will nee to remove the power head causing other problems
      thanks

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      • #4
        I hear what you're saying. I spent three days loosening my powerhead bolts, and finally was able to lift it off. Then two days more days removing three of those long bolts, two I was able to work back and forth to remove (after the powerhead was off), and the third I had to cut the head off, then hammer it out the top. Corrosion around those bolts was bad. Think i'm going to try painting the bolt holes, and the bolts then grease them well when putting back in. maybe that will hold down the corrosion for the next time?

        So I hear you on waiting. Off season is best for these projects. But, I didn't know they made any motors without that thermostat cover?

        Good luck.

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        • #5
          corrosion

          corrosion does suck. when i bought the boat i changed the water pump. had to cut the leg extension off of the long stainless stud, buy a new extension. i drilled the stud hole in the new extension about 1/32 bigger and inserted a stainless tube. also drilled the 2"deep hole in the leg and used the stainless.

          a 10'long stainless tube cost me $4.86. only took 3 taps woth a mallet to run it into the drilled out pieces but now i dont have to worry next time i pull the lower unit. the corrosion aluminum to stainless is like ceramic.wouldnt cost OMC much to prevent the problem.
          thanks for the info. i am new at this forum stuff. i expect i have a 70% chance at ruining the motor for need of a stat. oh well, gonna start looking for a newer motor.

          thanks again

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