New User - New to boats - Need help w/ 68 100hp Starflite

[WA-Newb]

Hi all...I am new to boating in general and just ran across this forum while searching for others who may have had similar issues with their Evinrude.

I have recently bought my first boat and after a few weeks of tinkering around with the steering mounts...mounting the ignition, choke and throttle cable I finally took it out for it's test run.

At first I thought I was good to go...she started right up, shifted as it should and we headed away from the dock with a big smile on my face...then I tried giving it more throttle to get on a plane and it just cut out...slipped gears or something...didn't want to go any faster basically.

Since I am new to boats I cannot tell what is happening really...if I were in a car I and experienced this I would say it was something with the fuel system...maybe not getting enough fuel, clogged filter or even possibly restricted exhaust. The semi shaking feeling I get when this motor does this is what throws me off even more though. It may be completely normal...I just have no idea.

The motor is a 1968 Evinrude Starflite S-Electric 100 HP
(model: 100882 or 100883...I think it's the first model listed)

It has a brand new power pack (hope that's the right name..black box that was around $275 and controls the spark).
Wiring was done by the PO and is not horrible but not great either (as I have been told).

I am not sure how fast this thing should go or what it should sound like so I made this short video for you all to watch. It is pushing a 1969 17 foot Glastron Tri-Hull.

When the throttle is only at around 20-30% she seems to run fine (at least to me) but when I give it anymore it starts to cut out and runs rough.

Things I have done to try and eliminate possible problems.
1. Used two different fuel tanks..bought new fitting for one.
2. Squeezed or checked primer bulb when throttling up (it was hard still)
3. Opened fuel filter cap (one screw) cleaned debris off screen
4. Played with the screw on the throttle cam (I think that's what it's called) but I made it run worse.
5. Accidentally turned /moved the yellow bar which turns the 4 low speed needles...was trying to figure out what it was hopefully put it back to same spot.
I stopped there so I wouldn't mess anything else up...lol

I have no idea what this motor should sound like...how fast I should be going...what RPMs I am running or if this is actually cutting out or slipping a gear even. I am a complete newb and just want to go fishing this summer on a next to nothing budget...lol

If I was on a lake this would be a fine speed for me and I wouldn't worry about it as much but since I will be going out to the Straits I would like to get it running as it should.

Things I have read so far that may need looking into...but again I don't know anything about this stuff so I may be WAY off.

1. Carbs need cleaning? - not sure how to go about this, just spray it down like a car?
2. Flywheel key - someone said that fixed their problem which sounded similar to mine
3. Check spark plugs to make sure they are all firing when in gear - no idea how to do this
4. Fuel pump problem - can I easily byp*** or check this?
5. Throttle cam adjustment - not sure exactly what I am doing there either

Also to note...

The compression results before I ran this...it was started in a barrel briefly but hadn't ran for X number of years.
First run - dry pistons
1. 78
2. 99
3. 93
4. 95

Second run - Oil squirted in pistons
1. 118
2. 120
3. 120
4. 128

This boat has also never been married to this motor...I had to hook up the throttle cable and just picked a spot to bolt the control lever up...I see adjustments but have not done any (if needed)

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Here is the link to the video:
1968-evinrude-starflite-cuts-out.wmv - YouTube

note / rant about video link:
Took me a while to figure out why the video was not working with the regular youtube link...so wanted to give others an FYI.
Youtube makes a URL for the video and mine happened to contain the letters r and X next to each other...well that gets bleeped out here so I kept getting a 404. Had to use tiny url to forward to my youtube video.
Here is an example...put the two mentioned letter letters in the ** places and the video works the "r" is lower and the "X" is upper case: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fp**UJkdmGE

[boats.net]

To Clean the carburetors, remove them, dis***emble, soak in carb cleaner (like automotive), verify every air fuel p***age is clear of debri. Carb/choke cleaner (with the straw) is good for this (compressed air does not show all). The flywheel key (sheared) will throw off timing, remove flywheel and verify. A test light hooked to the cylinder in testing will tell you if current is getting to spark plug. The throttle cam follower needs to be about 1/16" from cam. Adjustment screws should be about 1-1.5 turns out (to start). Verify the spark advance rod is connect with very little to no slop. Remove the fuel pump out put hose (to carburetor) while turning engine over verify fuel is being pumped out (would have a good flow) Should hook longer hose as to make sure fuel is not close to an ignition source.
Compression in first run is a little low, but second is ok.

[WA-Newb]

Originally posted by boats.net View Post

To Clean the carburetors, remove them, dis***emble, soak in carb cleaner (like automotive), verify every air fuel p***age is clear of debri. Carb/choke cleaner (with the straw) is good for this (compressed air does not show all).

When you say dis***emble...is this something someone with no experience should try? Will there be any "surprises" or what not that will get me stuck or will I hurt anything without having know how? Or will this be pretty straight forward and I will just unbolt...unscrew etc. then reverse for installation.

Originally posted by boats.net View Post

The flywheel key (sheared) will throw off timing, remove flywheel and verify.

I will try to look up how to remove the flywheel and inspect this key.

Originally posted by boats.net View Post

A test light hooked to the cylinder in testing will tell you if current is getting to spark plug.

I need to figure this one out.

Originally posted by boats.net View Post

The throttle cam follower needs to be about 1/16" from cam. Adjustment screws should be about 1-1.5 turns out (to start).

I will be trying to figure this one out still.

Originally posted by boats.net View Post

Verify the spark advance rod is connect with very little to no slop.

Another one for me to figure out.

Originally posted by boats.net View Post

Remove the fuel pump out put hose (to carburetor) while turning engine over verify fuel is being pumped out (would have a good flow) Should hook longer hose as to make sure fuel is not close to an ignition source.

I can do this one I think with no problem.

Thanks a lot..this is a great start for me.

It's probably going to be easier than I am thinking but since I know how much everything costs and I have no money to work with it's a little scary thinking I could mess something up without knowing it...which if that happens could be the end of my boating adventures...lol

[WA-Newb]

Just went and took some pics today while looking around.
Had an OMC tech mention he thought it was probably an electrical issue so wanted to post a couple pics of bad wires for reference.

Anyone know if bad wire shields (bare wires in some spots) or bad grounds.can cause lack of power?

Also wanted to show pics of my roller adjustment in case anyone has input.

Pushing the throttle arm all the way closed (slowest speed - idle)


Pushing the throttle arm all the way open (fastest speed)


The wires coming off this little black box have cracked shields (brown wire with red connector - top right) there is also a bad ground wire or two that go under the flywheel.


More photos here:
http://photobucket.com/68-starflite-100